Episode 11: The Drinks That Stir the Bar | Produce Row and The Ship (Jan. 14, 2019)

For the first History by the Glass bar visits of 2019, we returned to our mindbogglingly stupid arbitrary selection process which saw Central Eastside Industrial gastropub Produce Row Cafe defeat four other venerable contenders to "win" our unique brand of public affection.

Ordinarily, after determining the first bar we would simply look for whatever old joint (featured in Paul Pintarich's "History by the Glass" books, of course) was nearest and make it our second stop of the night.

On this night, however, with the smug confidence that comes with having TWO well received podcasts under our belts, we decided to think outside the box and consider a different narrative. Instead of simple geography, we thought about some more nuanced threads that might connect Produce Row with another of the historic bars on our list.

When the fog cleared, The Ship Tavern in Southwest Portland's Multnomah Village, once one of the city's preeminent dive bars, emerged as the unlikely pairing.

Why?

Well, as we scratched below the (somewhat) recently refined surfaces of both establishments, we saw two places that had strategically adapted their core product -- the drinks -- in order to remain relevant to modern consumers and (we assume) more profitable on the ledger.

When the going got tough, as it does for so many places in this hyper competitive business, Produce Row and The Ship (at different periods) cleaned themselves up a bit and pivoted their drink emphasis in a spirit of progression or, simply, to bust out of a slump.

The question was, did this strategy actually work for the bars? More importantly, did it work for us -- the two bozos holding the mics at the end of the night?

So we visited and mulled and drank...and considered and drank...and ate and drank some more...and, finally, mused on this idea plus, much, much more in another zigzagging, wildly entertaining modestly compelling episode of History by the Glass!

Produce Row Cafe | Central Eastside Industrial (Produce Row)

Established: In 1974 by the McMenamin brothers (yes, THOSE McMenamin Bro's) in its current bar form (though the "cafe" part goes all the way back to 1953 when it primarily served the workers who loaded and unloaded produce crates in this appropriately named industrial part of town). Prior to the local craft brew explosion (sparked in large part by the very same guys we mention above) Produce Row was known as one of the places in town to sample "good beer" -- bottles from around the country and the world. As locally made brewpubs began to crowd the market, its popularity waned and forced a change in approach, but it still lays claim (rightfully so) to being "Portland's Original Craft Beer Bar."

First Drinks: PRC whiskey ginger (Nate)..."Crow on the Mountain" -- Old Crow and a (not at all unappealing) Rainier IPA(?!) (Alfredo).

Interesting Food: Row Burger...listen to the blog to see where this gourmet offering rates on Nathan's scale! (DID YOU KNOW...Nate once ate 31 different burgers in 31 days throughout the metro area as part of his senior graphic design project at Portland State?!)

Men's Room: 2 out of 5 urinal pucks

Unique vintage trim and a kinda odd Abe Lincoln looking relief carving on the door. Refined, polished, and nicely forgettable. 

WPRI (Would Pintarich Recognize It) Rating: 51% chance
Produce Row went through a fairly major renovation around 2008 or so, leading some to claim that the previous owner "remodeled all the character out," but it still has the same name and the same address, so Paul wouldn't be completely lost. We're assuming he'd find the gastropub menu, mixology emphasis, and dope brunch DJs incredibly perplexing though (not that there's anything wrong with that).

Musings: After a scare back in 2014, Produce Row is now in its 45th year of operation and that's nothing to scoff at. It doesn't run away from its history and has even held onto its original sign (now hanging on its excellent patio). That being said, you could've told us the place was 5 years old and we'd be hard pressed to say otherwise. With a tasteful amount of Botox, Produce Row endures and thrives while serving a new generation of devotees. Good lord willin', we'll do the same someday.

Wanna see all our blurry photos? Click here to view this episode's photo journal! 

The Ship Tavern | SW Portland | Multnomah Village

Established: Sometime before or after WWII...1944-46. Pintarich writes in his second edition of HBTG in 2007 that it's been "moored  in Multnomah Village for as long as I can remember." (In other words, it's pretty fuckin' old.)

First Drinks: Pint of Pfriem Juicy Winter Ale (Nate) and a $3 taco Monday (??) bottle of Pacifico (Alfredo)

Interesting Food: While they don't do the bags of peanuts they used to be sorta famous for, they also don't do the microwaveable Totinos pizzas they used to be sorta infamous for. Call it a wash. They do still offer two separate nut options on the menu -- mixed AND cashews for $3 each -- which is at least twice as many as you'll find at most any other join in town. Oh also, celery sticks and carrots with ranch to dip for $3 (the simple veggie plate is an endangered species these days), plus the good old bag o' chips, which we love so well.

Men's Room: 3.5/5 urinal pucks

While there's not much about the utilitarian decor that is worth noting, it gets most of its points for its memorable no man's land of personal space -- a non-locking door that opens into a cove with a urinal and wide open commode separated by about 2 1/2 feet. So tight, in fact, that we couldn't even get a proper photo of the interior. Bad enough if you're desperate to empty the bladder while another dude is doing the same, but a word to the wise, you're gonna be better off going ANYWHERE ELSE, indoors or out, if your main boiler starts malfunctioning while at The Ship.  

WPRI Rating: 75% chance

During his 2007 visit, our man Paul Pintarich describes the old Ship as an anachronism whose ambiance mirrored the older taverns that used to permeate the city. While it has certainly been cleaned and polished and the beer offerings vastly expanded, the exterior and much of the interior are virtually unchanged.

Musings: We had a hard time running down a lot of concrete history about The Ship, but it's treated us both well on many an occasion over the years. We certainly have some nostalgia for its old "fuck you" beer/wine/cash only business model, but the new ownership has done an admirable job of preserving much of the character of the old place while making it more accessible to modern, more discerning, and, we're guessing, slightly more affluent drinkers in this part of SW PDX. The people today demand a plethora of beers to choose from and presented in ever dazzling ways. You can listen to the podcast to hear Alfredo's wildly unprofitable ideas on the matter, but if it takes two fancy digital tap list screens to keep WWII era watering holes like The Ship afloat these days, then damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead.

Wanna see all our blurry photos? Click here to view this episode's photo journal!